1923 CCM Perfect restoration

Submitted by Gordie on Sat, 11/29/2014 - 19:26

I'm restoring my 1923 CCM Perfect bicycle. I have the frame stripped down except...I can't get the front forks off the bike. I am unable to get the steering tube detached from the fork tube.

I was able to successfullly remove the big bolt that goes down the top of the steering tube, but I cannot loosen the steering tube from the fork tube.

Did these bikes use a wedge to join the steering tube to the fork tube? I threaded a long rod and put it down the steering tube and tried to screw it into the wedge. I then tapped the end of the rod to try to loosen the wedge but after a few hard taps the rod went all the way down to the bottom of the fork tube. I cannot hear the wedge rattling around inside the tubes.

I applied copious amounts of WD40 around the top of the fork tube where the steering tube enters the fork tube. I also shot some WD40 down the hole where the bolt came out, hoping that enough would penetrate around the wedge. I secured the forks and twisted the handlebars as hard as I could but couldn't loosen the tubes. I applied heat until the fork tube was smoking like it was on fire. Still no luck. I'm beginning to think I'm on the totally wrong track here.

Can anybody help me?

Also, there appears to be a plug on the  bottom of the fork tube. The bolt holding the front forks screwed into a hole in this wedge. Is this wedge holding things together? Is it's sole purpose to provide a place to attach the fender? I tried to get it out and I think I was actually able to move it out a few mm at most, but was starting to bugger it up so I stopped. Probably once the forks are removed it can be pounded out from above.

7 Comments

Submitted by Dave Brown on Sat, 11/29/2014 - 23:45.

Big thing here is to not be in a hurry let the wd40 work. Leave it for a couple of days. Maybe put more in. Also is there a nut at top of fork stem? If you can turn it and it seems to turn out give it a couple of tapes with a hammer and see if this will let you turn the bars. Then keep working it loose. Good luck.

Submitted by Mr Toad on Tue, 12/02/2014 - 14:25.

Sorry if I'm a little confused - I assume the stem is stuck after removal of the stem fixing bolt.  Mine was seized tight as well.  After doing the same things mentioned above I placed a piece of wood under the stem and pounded upward with a mallet just enough to break the stem loose, applied more WD40, tapped the stem from side to side and eventually  up it came.  Good luck.

Submitted by Wayne.Gillies on Wed, 12/03/2014 - 10:16.

Ordinary WD 40 is a marvellous product but a penetrant and lubricant, it is not (it dries out in time).  You can loosten up your arthritic joints, clean your bicycle, and a thousand other uses..it is a water displacement product.  Short of using low heat, access to a machine shop, etc, you should use a penetrant

(yes, WD40 does make one, see  http://wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil/ . you may have to order it).

There are a number of penetrating spray compounds available at the local CT, Home Hardware, etc.

 As others have stated, time and a concerted effort will achieve the results you wish.  Don't underestimate the power of "tapping" frequently over a period of time to loosen it after applying a penetrant (often)

I think WD 40 is a great product, but I don't use it either as a penetrant or a lubricant

Submitted by Wayne.Gillies on Wed, 12/03/2014 - 10:16.

Ordinary WD 40 is a marvellous product but a penetrant and lubricant, it is not (it dries out in time).  You can loosten up your arthritic joints, clean your bicycle, and a thousand other uses..it is a water displacement product.  Short of using low heat, access to a machine shop, etc, you should use a penetrant

(yes, WD40 does make one, see  http://wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil/ . you may have to order it).

There are a number of penetrating spray compounds available at the local CT, Home Hardware, etc.

 As others have stated, time and a concerted effort will achieve the results you wish.  Don't underestimate the power of "tapping" frequently over a period of time to loosen it after applying a penetrant (often)

I think WD 40 is a great product, but I don't use it either as a penetrant or a lubricant

Submitted by Dave Brown on Wed, 12/03/2014 - 18:17.

Hi all

I fully agree with Wayne saying that WD 40 is not something that should be used for a lubricant.  As it does dry out. There are all kinds of penetrant brands  that work wonders for getting those frozen parts apart and better than WD 40.

Submitted by Gordie on Sat, 12/06/2014 - 23:25.

Thanks, everybody. I'm back at it again this weekend and I'll give your suggestions a try.

Submitted by unionrick on Sun, 12/14/2014 - 12:26.

Before you take out the stem bolt you have to hit the top of the bolt to release the wedge.