1941 Balloon Tire MOTOR BIKE

Submitted by Avroe on Thu, 03/26/2015 - 22:53

Greetings from Brandon, Manitoba.  I found this gem being used as a prop in a shop window down town.  My eyes were instantly drawn toward the wide large rubber tires, and I realized it still had it's original ballon tires.  The shop owner was happy to sell it, and I was happy to get it !  I think the serial number dates this to 1941.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  The bike was rideable the day I got it.  All I had to do was inflate the tires, and they've held air ever since!  The brakes are scary !  You need to plan your stop well in advance.  Now I'm asking for your advise as to what I should do here... I Don't want to restore this, but it's called a motor bike for a reason.  Should I put a modern gas engine on it... or not ?  I'd also like to do something with the saddle. Any suggestions ?

 

For more photos, see "Avroe" in the collectors gallery.

 

Thanks in advance you guys... Cheers!

Avroe - Reg.

6 Comments

Submitted by Avroe on Thu, 03/26/2015 - 23:03.

Here are the photos...

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

Submitted by Wayne.Gillies on Fri, 03/27/2015 - 04:52.

The term "motorbike" is merely a model name for the bike.  The addition of the truss bars gave it the appearance of a "real" motorbike and appealed to the target audience.  The term was first coined in the late 20's early 30s with the advent of the baloon tire bike

The saddle appears to be of the same era as the bike and probably has a double pan, which makes it easy to re-cover .  Get some 1/4" memory foam from your local Tandy or other leather supply store, some supple leather from the same place or go to your local used clothing store and get a used leather jacket, with wide panels, cut it up and re-cover.  There are tutorials on the net; check out the Cabe.

Brakes have to be re-done, which essentially means a hub re-build.  The hub should be a 1937  pattern CCM hub (stamped CCM or Hercules), which had several variations, which included changes in the wedges..i.e. single or double wedges and which you will only know after you rip it apart.  Also remember that the brakes were not particularly effective for "stopping on a dime" with these heavyweight behemoths.

There are diagrams/schematics available on the web, I can't locate any  right now. All I can access now are pix of  a Model 37  lamp which my pal Bill Rudolph made.  see attachment, if I formatted it correctly

Clean it up, take care of the mechanics, and enjoy it

 

dscn3686.jpg

Submitted by T-Mar on Fri, 03/27/2015 - 08:37.

The term Motorbike actually goes back at least as far as the start of the Great War and possibly further. When CCM introduced their version  in  the 1918 catalogue, it was called a"Motor Bike", while the official designation was " Model W". While the double top tube is the definitive feature, CCM incorportrated two other motorcycle features. One was the truss fork with thin tubes extending from the axle dropouts to a small bracket attching to the upper headset stack. This feature was so popular that it became an option of some Roadster models. The third motorcycle feature were the handlebars with long grip extensions that extended straight and a cross brace between the extensions. The OP's bicycle is missing this cross brace and would be the one item I'd consider securing for the bicycle to complete the Motorbike effect.

Based on the serial number, it should be a 1941 Balloon Motorbike. This was the last year for this model, as it was discontonued in September 1941 as part of the war's material conservation efforts. The original price was $50.00 -$55.00, depending on exactly when during the year it was bought. Prices on most CCM models increased approximately 10% during 1941 due to material price increases. 

Here's a schematic and parts list for the 37 hub.

ccm_37_hub_a.jpg

Submitted by Avroe on Fri, 03/27/2015 - 12:43.

Thanks for the information fellas, and that hub schematic will be helpful when I get into it.  Thanks T-Mar.

Submitted by Lawrence Ruskin on Sat, 03/28/2015 - 13:20.

You can always change out both hubs for sturmey archer drum brakes for the front and 3 speed with drum brakes on the back ....run like the wind,,,,stop on a dime

Submitted by Headcase on Mon, 03/30/2015 - 17:28.

Nice looking bike Avroe.. i recently restored a very similar bike ..you can see my before and after pics on my thread. The coaster brakes are not difficult to strip and clean.. i searched and found some very good 'how-to' videos on you-tube that showed how to do it very well.I have attached a pic that shows the interior of the 1937 hub with the brake shoes in place. I cleaned it all up and re-packed all the bearings etc.. but with the 28" wheels it is still not great about stopping quickly!

hub_w_shoes_2.jpg