Just got a CCM Flyte

Trying to post a picture...I think I got it....

Wayne

nice find, and welcome to the site, some great bunch of guys on here

the seat might be hard to find, but you can get the other parts on this site, they are not really made out of rubber, closer to jello, but it could do the job

could you post pictures of your othe bikes, you seem to have some rare ones

if interested in selling some, let me know

Locomotion

Thx Locomotion! I did see the grips and pedal blocks on here but was hoping for vintage as new might look out of place. I'm simply gonna clean it up and service it and leave it original. I know the tool box seat is rare and costly (but I'm pretty sure the first year had that) I do have a long doing saddle in the meantime. The head badge is pooched too...

When I get home I'll uplaod pics of other bikes after I downsize them

Wayne

Hmmmm it was old me my file was too big but uploaded anyway? And up side down! That's the X-53

Wayne

Hi Wayne welcome to the site great score on the Flyte. Glad to see your keeping it original and just cleaning it up as they are worth more and they tell the life long story as they are only original once and a tall frame at that. The only thing I am questioning I might be wrong but I am thinking the fork has been replaced as in 36 they weren't chrome they were painted. So it could have been replaced as maybe the original owner had a accident and broke the front fork as I have heard they were prone to breakage. As 37 flyte forks were chrome. Overall beautiful bike. When cleaned up you should post a picture as I bet you will still be able to get the original paint to shin with a little elbow grease. I am envyese as my 37 flyte is original except i don't have the fenders but I have the correct toolbox seat. I also have a Elgin Twin bar bicycle but completely restored and I ride all my bikes on a rotational bases. Anyways great score and would like to see it cleaned up

Can you post pictures of the restored Twin Bar Elgin.

CCM FLYTE in NEW ZEALAND.

Hi just joined.

I have finally purchased a bare frame of one of these bikes.

1A5540 is the frame number on the front of the top of seat post lug.

It has rear wheel adjuster bosses in the rear dropouts.

Holes drilled for wiring[custom] rhs head lug top tube, also centre of top seat post lug behind frame number.

Nothing else except a chrome seat post 'L' shaped tubular contsruction.

two screws for the head badge are extant.

1 BBshaft bearing retainer.

I need everything else otherwise I will reconstruct using sturmy archer and Raleigh parts .

I want to chrome the frame.

Will use some 70s conventiomnal fporks alreadt chromed for this as the C shaped ones  will have to be imported.

I can post a pic sometime but want to know what year this is exactly?

The rear adjusters seem to be added later than the original blurprint for the patent model.

It is 1930s I konw that much.

Coming into winter here in mid May 2015.

leave your email derailled

i got a few parts i can get rid of for your 1937 Flyte

Hi

You think it is 1937 then?

It also has an oil or grease nipple hole LHS top of BBS, near down tubes.

email as requested.

entrovadis@gmail.com

I have bit of info on the old 'Redbird' bikes too just advts from the local papers back to about 1900.

They had some special chain they promoted then.

Based on the A-code, it should be a 1937 Flyte. If you are going to utilize standard forks, I wouild install a truss on them. That way, it will at least resemble a Flyte-Eight, which CCM produced in 1938 and 1939.

Hi Wayne, My 37 light delivery and my 39 double bar roadster, both have the oil hole on the BB...

I would repaint that sucker either in the original colours or that very kool green red combination, that guy showed you on this thread.

This never touch it idea is heavely over rated. That bike is supposed to be art deco, and should have the colours of that age.

I repainted my 37 because it looked like a pile of poo in the original black/ rust combo, and will repaint my DBR because some smuck put house paint on it...

Cheers,

Lawrence

I can understand sometimes with house paint but alot of times you can save the original paint. Plus once they are blinged up 95% of the time they are over restored. Another reason is you can't buy lead based paint. So you will not get exact original paint shine. Over shine yes. If maxglide puts some elbow grease into cleaning that Flyte up you will be amazed as he will get her to shine again.Its all in what a person likes. I prefer to age gracefully but some people like botox and silicone to age gracefully.

Hey there Oldy57.... my Twin Bar is not restored.... I am sorta into that project (the Flyte has dstracted me!) I usually like to leave bikes original but will redo this one as it has been completely repainted and I can't seem to uncover the paint under it. The whole bike is in very good shape but it was missing some parts. I took a year or so getting all the odds and ends together and am gonna get it done over the summer.... this is what it looked like when I got it....

Hi Lawrence.... Well the paint is in pretty good shape and I think it will look pretty nice once I clean it up. I will, however, poiish up all the chrome. Also will be putting NOS rims on it as the originals were so rusted the spokes were pulling right thru. Plus if I don't "restore" it with new paint I won't fret when I bump it up against something..... and I'l save a bunch of money. 

You wouldn't happen to have any CCM front or rear hubs or hub parts would you? The cones on my front hub are rough and Neil needs some parts for the rear hub of his CCM ballooner...

cheers...... Wayne

I'll look for the hubs. Yes I will be pleased to see what you do with the Flyte.

As for you lou, I did buy a bike from Joe to put my Pixie on but try as I might I couldn't get the spray paint off the original colour . I now have about 4 cans of various kinds of solvents and have the camel back up for sale.

For all the trouble I would rather put out the money to have a bike blasted and have harold work his magic on it.

I much prefer beauty over original rusted, chipped, lead based paint...

Toxic Harold can match any of the old colours, with some trouble.As for affecting the price, I don't think that's true.

That Flyte with those colours that guy showed you, would be the koolest bike on the rides, even kooler than my CCM light delivery bike...

Cheers,

Lawrence

The paint used by CCM in the 1930's and 1940's (Maroon or Blue) can still be closely matched in almost every respect. To do this, "One Shot" sign painters enamel should be used. Dealers in major cities can be found on the website for "One Shot" paint. One Shot is a super high quality Alkyf enamel (better than CCM's original enamel) that has bee in production since the late 1940's. Lead was used in some "One Shot" colours until around 2002, when it was replaced with other heavy elements. The flow characteristics of One Shot are outstanding and primed bicycles can be completed with a single coat (One Shot). It is also the perfect paint for pinstriping since it contains a small amount of Acetone which softens the underlying paint slkightly and provides good adhesion. The gloss characteristics and finish when using One Shot are almost identical to CCM's enamel. The old One Shot Maroon was very close to CCM's Maroon (for some years), but the current version is a little lighter and needs to be made darker by adding a small amount of another colour. This is also true for the Blues that are now avaiiible. When painting bicycles with One Shot, a good qualty 1' artists brush shoul be used (except for pinstriping). The brush should have body to it to hold a reasonable amount of paint.

Anyone trying to duplicate the colour and finish of old enamel paints faces a lot of problems now. Governments have severely restricted the use of Alkyd paint due to environmental issues. Alkyd paints that can still be bought in some paint stores (for industrial use) are generally of lower quality than the old leaded paints. While gloss and flow out are a problem, the pigments used to produce the old colours are also no longer used. The old colours were often brilliant and had more life to them. Modern pigments are dull by comparison.

Anyone who says their local automotive paint supplier or local paint store can match any colour is dreaming, because of the pigment issues Automotive Acrylic Enamels and Base Coat / Clear Coat systems fail in this respect because of the shine and the pigmant problems associated with modern paints. The old "Super Enamel" used on cars years ago were much closer.

When priming frames that are bare metal, I use an acid-based metal prep followed by Spray Max 2K Epoxy primer in a spray can (availible at some auto body supply shops). This is a very high quality epoxy primer that has both the primer and catalyst in a single spray can. The internal compartment holding the catalyst is punctured before use and is mixed with the primer. If you use this product it is important to spray in a well ventilated area (outdoors) and to wear a respirator.

John Williamson

I totally agree with your thinking John especially with the matching of paint. I have also used one shot to touch up my saphire blue balloon tire ccm with very good results. I have used one shot on my maroon ccms as well. You are right as I had to darken the one shot blue and maroon to match. Not perfect but very unnoticeable close. Good enough though. I have also used one shot to pinstripe with very good results great flow through the striping wheel. All around great product and been around for many years. Never painted a whole bike with it but looking to do a fender with it. Great info all in all.

Hi wayne,............ yes I have those parts. My phone number is 921 3369 and the usual area code..