Bearing adjustments

Submitted by rusty wheels on Fri, 07/27/2012 - 20:38

Well, everyone seems to have a different opinion on how to adjust what bearing on a bicycle.  The reason I bring this up, is that on the past 5 out of 6 CCM's I have worked on the front hubs are cracked.  To me it looks like the cones have been adjusted too tight.  These are all old (50's to 70's) bikes that have probably lived lives of misuse and abuse.  Is this a common failure for these hubs? 

What about the other rotating bits on your vintage CCM?  Coming from an automotive work environment, any "play" in a bearing adjustment would be a bad idea.  On these old bikes is it alright to set things a little on the loose side?  I have read the Sturmey Archer literature that calls for no play at the hub, but a slight amount at the wheel.  I have been using this for any wheels I have done lately with good results.  For headsets and cranks I have been tightening just enough so there is no play, but no tighter.  Also with good results. 

Anyone doing anything different?  Or have any good tips or tricks on setting things up, or even what grease/oils you are using.  There's nothing like a smooth riding old bike.

Erik

3 Comments

Submitted by Old-Bikes on Sat, 07/28/2012 - 09:44.

I like smooth bearings and zero play in them... but that being said, it's often not possible with old bicycles as they're worn and even when they were new, bearings weren't super good. now when I have to adjust them, I try to make a compromise between play and smoothness, no special rule just good judgement. 

Submitted by Dave Simms on Sat, 07/28/2012 - 10:34.

Bearings get destroyed by metal to metal contact.  You need a film of lubricant, oil or grease to prevent this, so you need a bit of play.

In my motorcycle riding days, I had a heated argument with a riding buddy about how tight to adjust the drive chain.  He contended that it had to be tight or the play in the chain would wear out the chain bushings.  I insisted on leaving some play.  Guess who had his chain break.  (Clue: it wasn't me)

Submitted by zephyr on Sat, 07/28/2012 - 15:17.

I like mines to be smooth but as tight as possible which means I thigh the cones until my level of smoothness is reached without leaving too much room just the perfect balance. I guess the bearings can always be replaced if they are damaged but it's to make sure the hub is not damaged too.

This raise a question. Could the hub surface be able to be machined (if still in good condition but with some wear from the lack of lube) to be able to get new bearings without removing too much surface so the bearing size is not affected?