It looks like a standard CCM Roadster with a 23/21 frame, probably dating from 1949 or 1950.You can find the year from the serial number. The chain guard is not original.
Submitted by FreeLander on Thu, 06/23/2022 - 19:04.
I also am curious if the chain on this bike is larger (width and pitch) than today's single speed chains. If i can find a larger cog, I would like to lower the gearing which would require a larger chain.
I also discovered this bike had orange tubes. The first time I have ever seen them. Were the common for this period?
You should be able to buy a 1/2" X 1/8" chain at Canadian Tire. It will be longer than your present chain. You can fit the larger size sprocket and then determine what length chain you will need. After doing this, you can remove the unnecessary extra length using a chain link extractor tool. Similarly, you can add extra links from a second chain to lengthen your chain using the same tool.
You occasionally find red tubes on older bikes, they are not common.
A new chain may not be required, depending on the current position of the axle in the slot and how large a sprocket you can find. Every two tooth increase in sprocket size only the moves the axle foward in the slot by 1/2". If you've got that plus an extra 1/2" for mounting the chain, you should be able to use the existing chain, provided its wear is relatively low.
Men's standard roadsters of this era typically came with an 18T rear sprocket, though 20T and 24T were available. Typically, the 20T are much easier to find than the 24T.
Another option to consider is a smaller chainwheel. I've found that it's often easier to find replacement chainwheels than hub sprockets. Mens' standard roadsters of this era typically used 48T chainwheels, while women's models typically used 44T. The 4T chainwheel reduction is almost equivalent to a 2T increase on the rear sprocket. In comparison to 48T (men's) chainwheels, the 44T (women's) chainwheels seem to have a higher survival rate, are generally in better condition and owners are more likely to part with them. Most owners' will readily part with their 44T chainwheels, in exchange for a comparable condition 48T chainwheel.
Of course, for an even bigger reduction in gearing, you can pair a larger sprocket with a smaller chainwheel.
Finally, according to CCM literature, the frame style that you have was introduced for the 1950 model year, so the bicycle should be no older than that.
Submitted by FreeLander on Fri, 06/24/2022 - 14:24.
Thanks!! All very helpful. The hub was pretty tight in the slots so I don't think I have much play there. I suspect it may be more difficult to find a cog than smaller chain wheel so it's likely I will go with that sugeestion or both, as you mentioned.
As for chain size, I am trying to remove the cog abd a standard chain whip won't mesh. The width of the teeth may be too wide. On a related note, I'm having trouble removing the cog. I have removed the lock ring. Does the cog screw off left or right handed or it it possible its a press fit?
According to the serial number, your frame was manufactured during 1950. However, the serial number is quite high, so I wouldn't rule out a 1951 model manufactured late in the calendar year. The only difference between 1950 and 1951 was that the latter had an option of Chrome plated rims, while 1950 only offered enamelled rims. It looks like yours may be chrome plated.
It's hard to tell from the photo but it looks like you may have a cut-off version of the correct head badge. I believe some 1950s gead badges were recently being offered in the FOR SALE section of the forum.
Submitted by FreeLander on Fri, 07/22/2022 - 11:27.
Thank you T-Mar. That's a wealth of information. I broke down the wheels with the intent to paint them but there was a lot of rust and I never made the effort to find out if they were chrome. I assumed enamel. I will go over to the "sale" section and have a look at head badges. That's for the direction. All the best.
It looks like a standard CCM Roadster with a 23/21 frame, probably dating from 1949 or 1950.You can find the year from the serial number. The chain guard is not original.
Thanks! Where would the serial number be located? I looked in the usual spots but didn't find it.
I also am curious if the chain on this bike is larger (width and pitch) than today's single speed chains. If i can find a larger cog, I would like to lower the gearing which would require a larger chain.
I also discovered this bike had orange tubes. The first time I have ever seen them. Were the common for this period?
all the best!
You should be able to buy a 1/2" X 1/8" chain at Canadian Tire. It will be longer than your present chain. You can fit the larger size sprocket and then determine what length chain you will need. After doing this, you can remove the unnecessary extra length using a chain link extractor tool. Similarly, you can add extra links from a second chain to lengthen your chain using the same tool.
You occasionally find red tubes on older bikes, they are not common.
Thanks! That is very helpful!
A new chain may not be required, depending on the current position of the axle in the slot and how large a sprocket you can find. Every two tooth increase in sprocket size only the moves the axle foward in the slot by 1/2". If you've got that plus an extra 1/2" for mounting the chain, you should be able to use the existing chain, provided its wear is relatively low.
Men's standard roadsters of this era typically came with an 18T rear sprocket, though 20T and 24T were available. Typically, the 20T are much easier to find than the 24T.
Another option to consider is a smaller chainwheel. I've found that it's often easier to find replacement chainwheels than hub sprockets. Mens' standard roadsters of this era typically used 48T chainwheels, while women's models typically used 44T. The 4T chainwheel reduction is almost equivalent to a 2T increase on the rear sprocket. In comparison to 48T (men's) chainwheels, the 44T (women's) chainwheels seem to have a higher survival rate, are generally in better condition and owners are more likely to part with them. Most owners' will readily part with their 44T chainwheels, in exchange for a comparable condition 48T chainwheel.
Of course, for an even bigger reduction in gearing, you can pair a larger sprocket with a smaller chainwheel.
Finally, according to CCM literature, the frame style that you have was introduced for the 1950 model year, so the bicycle should be no older than that.
Thanks!! All very helpful. The hub was pretty tight in the slots so I don't think I have much play there. I suspect it may be more difficult to find a cog than smaller chain wheel so it's likely I will go with that sugeestion or both, as you mentioned.
As for chain size, I am trying to remove the cog abd a standard chain whip won't mesh. The width of the teeth may be too wide. On a related note, I'm having trouble removing the cog. I have removed the lock ring. Does the cog screw off left or right handed or it it possible its a press fit?
thank you once again!
Hub Model
From the Patent Office...
Looking for a 20/22T CCM 37 Cog...
Serial Number...
The serial number for this bicycle is
83276 B
Is it possible to tell the year of manufacture from the Serial #
What is the correct head badge for this bike? The one on it seems more recent than the bike itself.
Thank you!
Serial #
According to the serial number, your frame was manufactured during 1950. However, the serial number is quite high, so I wouldn't rule out a 1951 model manufactured late in the calendar year. The only difference between 1950 and 1951 was that the latter had an option of Chrome plated rims, while 1950 only offered enamelled rims. It looks like yours may be chrome plated.
It's hard to tell from the photo but it looks like you may have a cut-off version of the correct head badge. I believe some 1950s gead badges were recently being offered in the FOR SALE section of the forum.
Thank you T-Mar. That's a wealth of information. I broke down the wheels with the intent to paint them but there was a lot of rust and I never made the effort to find out if they were chrome. I assumed enamel. I will go over to the "sale" section and have a look at head badges. That's for the direction. All the best.